From raw material extraction to garment disposal, the fashion industry is under intense scrutiny for its environmental and social impact. The organisation long known as the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC), which rebranded as Cascale in 2024, has emerged as a leading force driving change in this sector. Made up of brands, retailers, manufacturers, NGOs and academic institutions, it focuses on collective action to reduce the industry's ecological footprint and improve labour conditions.
This article examines how the coalition came to be, what changed with the rebrand to Cascale, its core initiatives, and the impact it continues to have on the global fashion landscape.
Origins of the Sustainable Apparel Coalition
The seeds of the coalition were planted in 2009, when Walmart and Patagonia began collaborating on a shared sustainability index and invited other companies to join. The Sustainable Apparel Coalition was formally founded in 2011 as a multi-stakeholder alliance aiming to address the systemic challenges of apparel manufacturing and distribution. Over time, membership expanded to include diverse players, from high-street labels to luxury brands, all working towards common sustainability goals.
From SAC to Cascale: what changed in 2024
In February 2024, the SAC rebranded as Cascale. The name combines "Cas" (SAC reversed), "CA" for collective action and "scale" for scaled ambition. The change reflects a broader remit: alongside apparel and footwear, Cascale now serves consumer goods sectors including home, sporting and outdoor goods, and bags and luggage.
A key point of confusion is the relationship with the Higg Index and the technology behind it:
- Cascale stewards and governs the Higg Index frameworks, modules and methodologies.
- Worldly (formerly Higg Co.) is the separate technology company that delivers the platform through which the Higg Index is implemented.
- The organisation has also stepped back from the consumer-facing Higg Materials Sustainability Index, following criticism over how its scores were used in marketing.
Key objectives
- Set industry-wide standards: develop and promote unified methodologies to measure environmental and social impacts across supply chains.
- Foster transparency: encourage brands to disclose sustainability data, building trust among consumers, investors and NGOs.
- Facilitate collaboration: create platforms where members share best practices, pilot projects and innovations.
- Enable continuous improvement: provide tools and frameworks, notably the Higg Index, to track progress and refine sustainability strategies.
Core initiatives
1. The Higg Index
The coalition's flagship tool, the Higg Index, offers a standardised way to measure environmental and social metrics. Its modules assess facilities, products and brands, helping members pinpoint areas for improvement in energy efficiency, carbon emissions, worker well-being and more. The frameworks are governed by Cascale and delivered digitally through Worldly.
2. Capacity building
Cascale runs training sessions, workshops and webinars to help member organisations and their suppliers understand sustainable practices. Topics range from chemical management to circular design, equipping stakeholders with practical skills for eco-friendly manufacturing.
3. Policy advocacy
Through partnerships and participation in global forums, the coalition advocates for stronger regulation and incentives that support sustainable production. This includes engagement on extended producer responsibility (EPR) schemes and transparent labelling of materials.
4. Research and innovation
Cascale invests in research to develop new materials and processes. By collaborating with academic institutions and technology providers, it aims to accelerate progress in areas such as bio-based fibres, waterless dyeing and lower-waste supply chains.
Impact on the fashion industry
1. Improved transparency
Many member brands use the Higg Index to assess resource use, waste management and labour conditions. This transparency fosters accountability and can influence purchasing decisions, as consumers reward brands that show meaningful progress.
2. Collaboration over competition
By pooling resources and knowledge, members share cost-efficient solutions that can be scaled across the industry. Competitors become partners in reducing the collective footprint, signalling a cultural shift in a traditionally competitive market.
3. Consumer awareness
Campaigns around sustainability and eco-labels have helped educate consumers about the impacts of fast fashion. As a result, more shoppers demand ethical supply chains and lower-impact products, pushing non-member brands to follow suit.
4. Regulatory influence
The coalition's research and data-backed recommendations inform policymakers. Initiatives such as mandatory corporate ESG reporting and stronger labour rules gain traction partly through collective advocacy from well-known retailers and NGOs under the coalition's umbrella.
Challenges and criticisms
- Voluntary participation: critics argue that without strict enforcement, some members might greenwash their efforts. This concern was central to the 2022 scrutiny that led the coalition to pause consumer-facing Higg labelling.
- Data accuracy: reliance on self-reported data can undermine trust, though third-party audits are becoming more common.
- Complex supply chains: tracking every tier of a global supply chain remains difficult, slowing the verification of labour and environmental standards.
- Limited consumer understanding: sustainability metrics can be confusing, and many consumers still prioritise cost and style over ethical considerations.
Real-world examples
- Adidas: uses the Higg Index to improve material choices and factory conditions, regularly publishing performance updates.
- Gap Inc.: collaborates on water-saving technologies, drawing on shared resources to scale best practices in denim production.
- Levi Strauss & Co.: engages in collaborative projects to refine chemical management and reduce water use.
The path forward
As Cascale, the coalition continues to refine the Higg Index and extend its reach into adjacent consumer goods sectors. Emerging topics such as microplastics, biodiversity and the circular economy are shaping its research agenda, alongside more rigorous audits, better data tools and stronger policy advocacy.
From SAC to Cascale: meaningful change in a complex industry
The coalition exemplifies how collective action can drive change in a complex industry. By establishing common standards through the Higg Index, investing in capacity building and advocating for stronger policy, it has shaped how clothing is designed, produced and consumed. As sustainability becomes an investment priority, joining alliances like Cascale is increasingly important for brands that want to stay relevant, responsible and competitive.
